What the heck? You want to take me to the desert? What kind of vacation is that?
That was my wife’s first reaction when I said let’s go to Sedona, Arizona. I quickly explained that yes, Sedona is in the middle of the desert, but it is much more than desolate landscapes and sand.
So we packed our bags and embarked on an unforgettable road trip. The first leg of this journey was through familiar California towns, palms trees and windmills. But once we entered Arizona, the landscape started to change into stark rock formations and rare lonely bushes here and there. And to complete our desert experience, we encountered a ferocious sandstorm.
Sedona and the valley surrounding it is perched at a 4500 feet elevation, which makes it much cooler than the Arizona desert. The valley is so hospitable to life, it attracted the attention of prehistoric people and natives since 11,500 BC.
Interesting Facts: The canyon walls of Sedona show nine layers of stone from different geological periods that span over hundreds of millions of years.
Today, it is a thriving tourist town and retirement community with many resorts, shops and restaurants. The tranquility of the scenery, beautiful red rocks and lush greenery attracts tourists from around the world.
Where to stay
Sedona is well established as a tourist destination, so you can find accommodation for every taste and budget. You can find a hotel or motel room, live in luxury at a resort and spa or find seclusion at a retreat.
If you want to get very close to nature and enjoy a night under the star, you can camp for free at Sedona. If you did not bring any camping gear with, rent a tent through Airbnb.
A very good resource to help find your perfect stay in Sedona is https://www.sedona.net/where-to-stay.
What to do
The mystical side
The Sedona mystics claim there are magnetic vortices running through the area that give it an otherworldly significance. Many tour operators are willing to take you hunting for Bigfoot or aliens. Staying overnight in the National Forest is not allowed, so these tours only go until dusk. In my opinion, the best sights are yet to come – when it gets totally dark.
Interesting Facts: Sedona’s vortexes are a popular draw for many spiritual seeking visitors and new age thinkers.
Low light and perfect weather make Sedona a great place for stargazing. Just step a few feet away from town and you can have a clear view of the heavens. For a better view try to go behind one of the famous red rock formations facing away from the city. You will be plunged into total darkness with only starlight to guide you.
Get some tips on Stargazing at the Sedona Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau.
Tip: When you go on one of those stargazing excursions, it is recommended that you take a red flashlight or headlight. The red light allows you to find your way on the trail but doesn’t create a lot of light pollution.
I inquired about the best stargazing sport from a ranger at the visitor’s center in uptown Sedona. She gave me some great ideas:
Thunder Mountain: It is in the Coconino National Forest, north of highway 89a. Take Dry Creek road to Thunder Mountain Road, go about .6 miles then turn into the trailhead to the left. Take a short hike which will take behind the red rocks for total darkness.
Sugarloaf Summit: Also in the Coconino National Forest, north of highway 89a, but the road to the trailhead starts from Coffee Pot drive. The trailhead is actually on Buena Vista Drive. Another short hike takes to one of the best star viewing spots.
Astronomy clubs: Another way to experience the Sedona starry night it to attend an event hosted by the area Astronomy clubs. Go to the Astronomers of the Verde Valley at http://www.astroverde.org/ to get more information and to check their event calendar. You can also try Sirius Lookers.
Stroll around town
This is the historic part of town where Sedona started. Many of the buildings here are on the registry of historic buildings.
You can also find the Visitor’s Center at the corner of 89a and Forest road.
Tip: Parking is mostly free in uptown around the side streets. On Hwy 89a, there are metered parking spots with a 3-hour limit.
Close to the visitor’s center, there is a shopping plaza which has some great souvenir shops and excellent restaurants. We especially liked Wildflower Bread Company, where we enjoyed breakfast and lunch on two different days. This establishment bakes everything in-house and only uses locally sourced fresh ingredients. The food was diclinous.
Walking through the rest of the street you can find many art galleries, hotels, restaurants and great views of the red rocks.
Interesting Facts: The sun shines over 300 days out of the year which is more than Florida.
This area is also the hub of tour activity. If you haven’t already booked your tours, you can find tours for every taste and adventure level. Some of my favorites are Red Rock Western Jeep Tours, Pink Jeep Tours and Red Rock Balloons.
On a recent visit, we went with Pink Jeep tours on a 3-hour Scenic Rim wild ride. After getting out of town on highway 179, we entered a rough and bumpy dirt road that took us deep in between the majestic red rocks.
You can actually use this road, which is called “Schnebly Hill Road” to reach Flagstaff, but only if you have a sturdy 4-wheel drive vehicle – and willing to punish your ride. The road is very rough with many cracks and rocks.
The jeep kept climbing from Sedona at 4300’ to the “Mogollon Rim“ at around 6500’. Along the way we gazed at the 7 warriors rock formation guarding the valley below, we hiked to a bluff with a panoramic view of the Verde Valley and Sedona and we rested at the rim with even more dramatic views far below.
The best way to enjoy the red rock formations around Sedona it to take one of the hiking trails close to town. My favorites were Cathedral Rock and Crescent Moon Ranch State Park – explored below. For a very good guide to Sedona, Trails go here.
If you choose the short .7-mile trail, you will be climbing quickly to a height of 600 feet. The trail is well marked and takes you to a plateau where you can rest and enjoy the view.
If you have more time, I recommend taking the longer trail. You can take the Easy Breezy trail from the Cathedral Rock trailhead, keep going until you hit the HT trail. Turn right on HT trail which starts to climb gently until you hit the Templeton trail.
Interesting Facts: More than 90 feature films and countless videos and commercials have been shot in the Sedona area including Billy the Kid and 3:10 to Yuma.
As you climb gently along the Templeton trail you can enjoy views of the rocks from all angles and end up at the top Plateau with all the other hikers. You can then hike down the steep trail back to the trailhead.
Crescent Moon Ranch State Park
From the parking lot, you get to the easy trail running along Oak Creek with commanding views of Cathedral Rock. The trail is mostly shaded with many benches and relaxing spots along the way.
To get better photos of the running water and the looming red rocks in the background, leave the main trail and venture closer to the creek.
Visitors can have a picnic or a barbeque then go fishing or swimming in the creek. It is also a launching pad for many hiking trails in the area.
Soldiers Pass Trail
Along the way, you will pass "Devils Kitchen sinkhole", "Seven Sacred Pools", natural arches, through a Wash and up to the Brins Mesa. One at the top you will enjoy great views in every direction.
Where to Eat
Coffee pot: The café was a walking distance from our hotel – and opened very early, so ended up having breakfast here many times. The coffee and food were great, but we really enjoyed the ambiance and the friendly service. They also offer half-plates so won’t have leftovers to carry around. My favorite dish was the build your own omelet and the Waffles.
Wildflower bread company: Conveniently located in Uptown Sedona, this restaurant offers sandwiches, soups and freshly baked goods made with locally sourced ingredients. For breakfast, we tried the Roasted Tomato & Feta and the cinnamon brioche French toast and for lunch, we tried the Roasted Sweet Potato and the Reuben sandwich. All were very tasty and satisfying.
Tii Gavin restaurant: This restaurant is tucked away between the red rocks at the Enchantment Resort and SPA. You will have to drive through a winding road to get to this place but it worth the effort. The resort is nestled between canyons and red rocks and the restaurant offers a great view and delicious food. While we are enjoying this amazing view at sunset, we enjoyed a New York Steak and Street Shrimp Tacos.
Interesting Facts: John Wayne, Humphrey Bogart, Elvis Presley, Johnny Depp, and Robert Deniro have all starred in movies shot in the Sedona area.
Creekside American Bistro: Another restaurant with great views. Sitting on the balcony overlooking Oak Creek, we enjoyed our leisurely dinner with more red rocks to admire. Our curried lamb adobo and wild Alaskan kings were cooked to perfection and very tasty.
Reds at Sedona Rouge Hotel and SPA: Is always a great advantage when you find a great restaurant and bar and your hotel. It is very convenient to just walk a few steps for dining or a few drinks. The food here was excellent, but the drinks were just average. The official drinks menu was very limited, but when we asked, the bartender was willing to make anything we asked for. I recommend the Eggs Benedict for breakfast and the Grilled Angus burger for lunch. During their happy hour, you get drinks and small plates for half price.
The Grand Canyon
Sedona can also be a launching pad for more adventure. The Grand Canyon is about 2-hours away by car. You can make it a one-day trip and enjoy the stunning views from the South Rim. Read more here.
Many tour operators run day tours from Sedona to the Grand Canyon.
Flagstaff is only about 50 minutes away from Sedona and offers a world of discovery. The road from Sedona to Flagstaff is itself a destination. You will be going through Oak Creek Canyon most of the way with great views on either side of the road.