Aswan is in the southernmost Egyptian town and contains significant archaeological sites like the Philae temple complex on Agilkia Island near the Aswan Dam. 

In March of 2023, my wife and I decided to embark on our long-awaited journey through Egypt. 

After visiting Cairo and Giza, we flew on Egypt Air to Luxor, were whisked away to our cruise ship, Steinberger Minerva, and checked into our fabulous cabin. 

The four-day cruise started from Luxor and stopped at Edfu, Kom Ombo, and ended up in Aswan.

In Aswan, we explored the Unfinished Obelisk, the High Dam, the Temple of Philae, and a Nubian Village.  

The Town of Aswan

Aswan contains significant archaeological sites like the Philae temple complex on Agilkia Island near the Aswan Dam. 

Aswan is also known for its Nubian culture and handicrafts. The city has several Nubian villages and a museum dedicated to Nubian culture. 

Aswan is a popular tourist destination that is known for its beautiful scenery, including the Nile River, the desert, and the mountains.

Walking inland, away from the cruise ship port, you will reach a market with many shops and restaurants. 

After four days of breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffets on the boat, we decided to try a local restaurant that was recommended by our guide. 

At Makka Restaurant, we enjoyed molokhia served with rice, chicken, and Mixed-Gill. Molokhia is a soup made with minced Jute leaves and lots of garlic. Every meal is usually served with many small dishes and pita bread. 

Tip: When you are served small plates with Hummus, Baba-Ghannoge, and Labaneh (yogurt cheese), the best to eat is by curring small pieces of pita bread and dipping them into the dish. In effect, you are making one-bite sandwiches. 

After dinner, we strolled along the Nile late at night and felt totally safe. The city had a festive feel with many decorations and people roaming the streets at night because Ramadan was a few days away. 

Exploring the city at night was fun, but we came here for the ancient monuments and had many to visit the next two days.

Unfinished Obelisk

A short drive from the cruise ship port took us to an ancient quarry that provided the Egyptians with the massive stones used to build the Pyramids and Temples. After cutting the stones, they transported them to the building sites on sailboats.

The quarry is also home to the Unfinished Obelisk, a colossal monument that stands as a testament to the remarkable engineering prowess of the ancient Egyptians. 

This massive Obelisk lies abandoned in the quarry due to a crack that appeared during its carving process. It is still connected to the bedrock underneath it. 

The Obelisk, commissioned by Queen Hatshepsut around 1500 BCE, was intended to be one of the largest obelisks ever constructed, measuring over 131 feet (ca. 40 m) long and weighing around 1,200 tons. 

The High Dam

The High Dam in Aswan, Egypt, is a modern marvel of engineering that has transformed the country's landscape and infrastructure. 

This massive Dam, completed in 1970, is one of the largest dams in the world, measuring over 12,565 feet (ca. 4 km) in length and standing over 364 feet (0.11 km) tall.  

The Dam helps control the annual Nile flooding and generates electricity for Egypt's growing population. 

It was built with help from the Soviet Union, so in recognition of this help, the Government of Egypt erected the Russian-Egyptian Friendship Monument on the dam. The symbol of friendship is an open lotus flower with 5 leaves that rises to a height of 1970 feet (0.6 km).

Like every tour group before us, we stood inside the monument, formed our own lotus, and captured the moment. 

The Aswan Dam created Lake Nasser, which stretches over 310 miles (ca. 499 km) in length and covers an area of over 1,930 square miles. 

The creation of Lake Nasser also had significant archaeological implications. As the lake's waters rose, several ancient temples and structures were at risk of submerging. 

To protect these invaluable cultural treasures, a massive effort was undertaken to relocate them to higher ground. 

The most famous of these temples is the Abu Simbel Temples, which were carved into the rock during the reign of Ramses II. 

These temples were carefully dismantled and relocated to an artificial hill overlooking the lake, preserving them for future generations to appreciate.

One of the relocated temples is Philae, which we visited next. 

Philae Temple

Philae sits atop Agilkia island in the Nile. We had to take a motorboat ride to get to it, and as we approached the island, we saw a magnificent sight. 

This majestic temple, dedicated to the goddess Isis, is a jewel of ancient Egyptian architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Philae Temple was built during the Ptolemaic period (305-30 BC) and was later expanded during the Roman period. 

One of the most well-known features of Philae Temple is the monumental gateway, known as the pylon. 

The pylon is adorned with intricate carvings and reliefs depicting scenes from ancient Egyptian mythology and religious rituals. 

The reliefs on the temple walls provide valuable insights into the beliefs and practices of the ancient Egyptians, offering a glimpse into their rich culture and mythology.

Another highlight of the Philae Temple is the sanctuaries dedicated to the goddess Isis, which are considered the holiest part of the temple. 

The sanctuaries contain beautifully preserved reliefs and statues of Isis, depicting her as a nurturing mother and a powerful goddess. 

Interesting Fact: The island of Agilkia, where Philae Temple is located, has an interesting history. In the 20th century, the construction of the High Dam in Aswan led to the flooding of the original temple of Philae. As a result, the temple was painstakingly dismantled and relocated to this island, stone by stone, in a massive UNESCO-led effort to preserve this ancient treasure. 

We were very impressed with the Temple; we returned at night to attend the Sound and Light show. 

The show begins with a brief introduction to the history of the Philae Temple and then moves on to tell the story of Isis and Osiris. Osiris was the god of the underworld, and Isis was his wife and sister. Osiris was murdered by his brother Seth, but Isis was able to resurrect him. The story of Isis and Osiris is one of the most important myths in Egyptian mythology and is told in many versions.

We learned that the show is available in a variety of languages. — English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Arabic, and Russian. 

It happened to be in Italian during our chosen time, so we were provided with digital devices that broadcast in other languages. My English version was adequate, but it lost the booming quality of the sound reverberating through the temple walls. 

Nubian Village

On our last day in Aswan, we had some time to kill before our flight to Sharm El-Sheikh, so we went on a tour of the Nubian Village.

The Village is located on the west bank of the Nile River and is home to the Nubian people, who are an ethnic group indigenous to the Nile Valley. 

The Nubians have a rich culture and history, and their village is a great place to learn about their way of life.

As we approached the village from our boat, we saw that the houses were very colorful with many blue and white colors. It was reminiscent of a Caribbean Town. 

On our way to a Nubian home, we passed many shops, cafés, and a few camels. The lady of the house invited us in, gave us a tour of her humble house, and offered us some tea. 

I was shocked to find live crocodiles in two cages in the middle of the courtyard. It turns out Nubians keep crocodiles as pets. 

On the way out, we passed a shop that sells herbs and candies, and of course, we had to buy a few things.

In March of 2023, my wife and I decided to embark on our long-awaited journey through Egypt, and spent the first three days in Cairo. 

Read about Egypt and the highlights of our tour here.

This page is dedicated to our experiences in Cairo, the capital of Egypt. 

Like most Middle Eastern cities, Cairo is a beautiful mix of old and new. It is possible to find an ultra-modern hotel next to an old building on the same street. 

It is also a mix of people and religions, and this is most obvious in the old city, with historic mosques, churches, bazaars, and citadels. 

Cairo overview

Egypt is a country of 110 million – not counting all the tourists, and most seem to live in Cairo's metropolitan area – about 23 million. 

Everywhere you go, too many people are roaming the streets, shopping, going about their daily lives, and driving. 

No one seems to follow traffic laws - they are more like suggestions than laws.  

Despite this organized chaos, life seems to run smoothly, people are generally friendly and helpful, and visitors should expect a great experience.

Important Warning: Don't drive in Cairo. The locals know how to navigate the nightmarish traffic, but it would be a challenge to visitors. Taxis are available everywhere, but Uber and Lyft are not.

Everyone speaks English and many other languages. If you look like a tourist, expect vendors, beggars, and tour guides to address you in your language. Of course, most of them only know a few words needed for their trade. I was addressed in Italian, German, and English in one market.

Interesting Facts: The longest river in the world, the Nile, runs through Cairo. 

Tourist attractions are generally traffic-controlled with a barricade. Expect to be stopped and asked a few questions. If you are with a tour guide, they will interact with the police. 

Tip: You will encounter many beggars in crowded areas – some are small children. If you want to help, have small currency denominations (5 Pound notes = $1.5) in your pocket to quickly hand out. 

Finally, if this is your first visit to Egypt, I strongly recommend going with a tour company.

I booked my tour of Egypt with Indus Travel, which in turn contracted with the local Memphis Tours. They arranged for all the reservations, activities, and local guides. 

Our guide met us at the airport, arranged for transportation, and provided detailed and informed narratives about the sites we visited. They were also well-versed in English. 

I am thrilled with both tour companies and will definitely use them for future travel. 

Western-style, Indian, Japanese, and Chinese restaurants are found in all major cities, but I advise you to try traditional Egyptian and Middle-Eastern cuisine. Ask your guide to arrange for an authentic culinary experience. 

The currency conversion rate is very favorable for Western travelers. One dollar will get you 31 pounds, and a Euro will get you 33 pounds. The locals call their currency "Geneh". 

A filling bowl of Koshari (a local traditional dish) will cost 35 pounds, around 1 dollar. A gourmet Moroccan dinner for two with a Nile view is 1860 pounds, around $60.

Where to stay

We stayed at the Pyramisa Suites Hotel Cairo, in Dokki, Giza Governorate. Although it was not on the Nile, it was a short walk away.

The service was excellent, and the room was spacious and comfortable. 

Breakfast was included, so we started every day with a trip to the buffet line. They had a large variety of dishes and an omelet station. 

Although we were promised wifi, it was non-existent. So, if you are here for a business trip and need wifi, find an alternative.

Interesting Facts: From all of the ancient seven wonders of the world, namely the Statue of Zeus at Olympia in Greece, the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, the Colossus of Rhodes, the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt, and the Lighthouse of Alexandria, only the Great Pyramid of Giza still existsnear Cairo. 

There are plenty of other accommodation options in Cairo. If you want a luxurious stay, try St. Regis Cairo or Four Seasons Hotel Cairo on the Nile – both with amazing views. 

Another good choice is Sofitel Cairo Nile El Gezirah, which is also on the Nile and has several great restaurants. We enjoyed a delicious Moroccan dinner right on the Nile with a beautiful view of the Cairo skyline, sailboats, and a fountain. 

If you are going with a tour company, let them suggest the best accommodation. They know your budget and the best places for tourists. 

Do you prefer to be close to the Pyramids? Many hotels and resorts are a few steps away from the Pyramids. 

One of my favorites is the Hayat Pyramids View Hotel, with a great view of the Pyramids from rooms and restaurants. They can also arrange for tours of the Pyramids and Saqqara.

What to see and do

Of course, we were anxious to visit the great Pyramids and Saqqara in Giza, but first, we had to explore Cairo, its history, and its people.

Walking around town

Zamalek Island

Cairo is a bustling city with cars and pedestrians intermixing and creating what I like to call organized chaos. So it isn't easy to figure out the best walking places. Do your research and ask your tour guides for advice.

I always wanted to walk along the Nile. On our first day in Cairo, we took off from our hotel on foot, headed towards a traffic circle called Majdan al-Dzala (or El-Galaa Square), over the Glalaa bridge, and into Zamalek island.

This island is located in the Nile River between downtown Cairo and Giza and is characterized by upscale hotels, restaurants, embassies, plush homes, and pleasant gardens.

Important note: Avoid taking pictures around embassies and government buildings. 

The island also has excellent photo opportunities around famous landmarks like the Cairo Tower, the 26th of July Street, the bridges, the opera house, and the All Saints' Cathedral. 

Interesting Facts: Cairo hosts many unique & vibrant festivals throughout the year. Festivals like Cairo Bites, where visitors can taste national and international cuisine, the Cairo jazz festival, the Fashion Festival of Cairo, the International Film Festival, and others. 

There are many nicely designed buildings here as well with European architecture. 

It is possible to circumnavigate the whole island by walking along the Nile. Check this trail guide for more information. 

For a shorter walk, turn left on Um Kalsom Street after you cross the Glalaa Bridge and keep going on Um Kalsom.

Keep going until you reach the Golden Flamenco Hotel. You can then turn back or keep going to follow the full-circle trail. 

Along this route, you will have great views of the Nile on your left and several landmarks on your right. 

Looking for more great walks? See this guide.  

Old Cairo

Old Cairo is a historic area and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area includes the site of a Roman-era fortress, the Christian settlement of Coptic Cairo, and the Muslim-era settlements pre-dating the founding of Cairo proper in AD 969. 

Walking around this old town, you cross generations of Jewish, Christian, and Muslim history.

We began walking from the Mary Gerges Street metro station with St. George Shrine on the right and the old Cairo Bazaar on the left.

After a short walk, we turned into a narrow alley full of street vendors and small shops that led us to the Hanging Church. 

The Hanging Church is a Coptic church built around 692 AD on the southern gate of the Roman Fortress. 

We had to climb 29 stairs to get to the entrance. A glass floor shows how high the church is above ground – around 6 feet.

We then visited St George's church, the Greek cemetery, and the Greek seminary.  

Our next stop was at Saints Sergius and Bacchus church, where we descended into a cave called the "Holy Family Crypt." 

Interesting Fact: There is a beautiful Virgin Mary portrait in the cave. Walk around it while gazing at her eyes. It will seem that the Virgin's gaze is following you. 

It is widely believed in Egypt that Joseph, Mary, and newborn Jesus were hidden in this cave for three years to save the Divine Infant from the massacre of the innocents ordered by Herod.

Lunch was at Tajoury Oriental Restaurant, close to Old Cairo, where we enjoyed more traditional Egyptian dishes. We tried the Lamb Tagin and Fatteh and finished with Kenafeh for dessert. The restaurant also has a nice view of the Nile.

Major attractions

There is still a lot to see in Cairo and its suburbs. You must visit places like the Egyptian Museum, Saladin Citadel, Mohammed Ali Mosque, and Khan El-Khalili Bazaar and take a Nile Cruise on a Falawka.

Falawaka Cruise on the Nile

A felucca (falawka) is a traditional wooden sailboat and one of the best ways to experience Cairo.

Cruise the Nile on one of those small sailboats and enjoy the Cairo Skyline, fountains, and party boats passing by.

Our cruise started from Garden City Marina next to the Four Seasons Hotel at Nile Plaza. Our timing was perfect as the sun began to set and the city lights ignited. 

Our captain spent 90 minutes going up and down the Nile, pointing out the famous landmarks. 

Every once in a while, a pleasure boat passes by with revelers singing and dancing. 

Before the cruise, we stopped at the popular Abu Tarek restaurant for the traditional Koshari dish with a classic rice pudding dessert.  

Interesting Fact: Koshari is made out of rice, lentils, elbow pasta, chickpeas, and grilled onions and is served with tomato sauce and hot sauce.

After the Falawka, we stopped for a cup of sugar cane juice. Sugar cane is a major Egyptian crop; special presses make it a deliciously sweet drink. 

On our second day in Cairo, and after we enjoyed a busy day in Giza, we stopped for dinner at La Palmeraie Moroccan Restaurant inside the Sofitel Hotel on a terrace overlooking the Nile. 

Important Note: Credit and Debit cards are accepted everywhere, but almost no one accepts American Express.

We enjoyed the view and tasted their lamb with dried fruit and chicken with potatoes tagine. The service was exemplary, and the prices were reasonable.

The Egyptian Museum

When in Cairo, you must spend some time at the Egyptian Museum, home to the world's largest collection of Egyptian antiquities. 

The museum houses over 120,000 items, with a representative amount on display. 

Interesting Facts: The museum resides in the infamous Tahrir Square – the epicenter of the Egyptian Revolution. During the chaos it was broken into, and two mummies were destroyed.

The building was built in 1901 and is the largest museum in Africa. A newer Grand Egyptian Museum is built in Giza and is expected to open in late 2023.

Among its masterpieces are Pharaoh Tutankhamun's treasure, including its iconic gold burial mask, widely considered one of the best-known works of art in the world and a prominent symbol of ancient Egypt.

The museum has two main floors: the ground and the first. 

On the ground floor is an extensive collection of large-scale works in stone, including statues, reliefs, and architectural elements. 

These are arranged chronologically clockwise, from the pre-dynastic to the Greco-Roman period. 

Tip: The museum is very popular and can get very crowded, so try to go in the afternoon. It is open on Thursday evenings from 5-9 pm, which is the best time due to fewer crowds.

Also, on the first floor are artifacts from the final two dynasties of Egypt, including items from the tombs of the Pharaohs Thutmosis III and Thutmosis IV, as well as many artifacts from the Valley of the Kings.

In the garden adjacent to the museum building is a memorial to famous Egyptologists of the world. It features a monument to Auguste Mariette, surrounded by 24 busts of other Egyptologists.

You can find more information at the official website.

The gift shop is a great place to stock up on some souvenirs and books, and the café next door is a good place to relax and enjoy drinks and snacks after a long journey through time. 

Our visit to the museum was educational and entertaining, but the crows put a damper on our enjoyment. I think the museum administration needs to enact a reservation system and limit the number of people visiting simultaneously. 

Saladin Citadel

Also known as the Citadel of Cairo, it is a medieval Islamic-era fortification in Cairo, Egypt, built by Salah ad-Din (Saladin) and further developed by subsequent Egyptian rulers. 

Its location on a high promontory overlooking Cairo gives it a strategic position used by many rulers and armies throughout history. 

It was among the most impressive and ambitious military fortification projects of its time when it was constructed. It is now a preserved UNESCO historic site with mosques and museums.

Interesting fact: Cairo has only two main seasons across the year. There are roughly eight months of summer and four months of winter.

In the first half of the 19th century, Muhammad Ali Pasha demolished many of the older buildings and built new palaces and monuments, and spectacular mosques throughout the site, giving it much of its present form. 

Today, the Citadel complex is open to the public and offers a unique journey through Egypt's history and a commanding view of Cairo and the Pyramids beyond.

Mosque of Muhammad Ali

Mohamed Ali was an Ottoman military commander and the de facto ruler of Egypt from 1805 to 1848. 

He was considered the founder of modern Egypt, and at the height of his rule, he controlled all of Egypt, Sudan, Hejaz, and the Levant. Read about Mohamed Ali Pasha here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muhammad_Ali_Pasha

During his rule, he demolished some old Mamluk buildings to make room for his grand mosque, built in the Ottoman (Turkish) architectural style. 

He died before finishing the project, so his sons completed it in his honor. 

Tip: To preserve the mosque's floor and out of respect, wear a provided plastic cover over your shoes before entering. Removing your shoes is no longer required. 

As we entered the mosque, we noticed the spacious and bright feel of the interior. Looking up, we saw a large central dome surrounded by four small and four semicircular domes. 

Under the domes, many chandeliers and circular light structures illuminated the grand hall and the stained glass windows. Some windows had beautifully crafted wood frames.

A shrine for Mohamel Ali sits in the corner of the mosque. 

Like many Middle Ages mosques, it has a large courtyard with a place for cleansing before prayer. It is reminiscent of the Omayyad Mosque in Damascus, Syria. 

Papyrus factory and museum

During our tour of old Cairo, our guide suggested we visit the Old Cairo Papyrus Museum to learn how ancient Egyptians created and inscribed paper. You can watch a demo here.

The staff greeted us and started with a demo of how papyrus was turned into paper by the ancient Egyptians. 

We then admired the extensive collection of completed artwork that included many styles. My favorites were the pharaonic styles. 

Tip: Be warned; haggling about the price is expected, so don't hesitate to start low and negotiate your way to a reasonable price.

Khan El-Khalili bazaar

A visit to this famous bazaar is a must. Even if you don't need to buy anything, you must experience the jam-packed shops, vendors, and artisans. 

The bazaar (souq) was established as a trade center in the Mamluk era. Nowadays, this shopping district has become one of Cairo's main attractions for tourists and Egyptians alike.

Interesting Fact: You will notice many unfinished buildings as you explore the city. That is because owners don't have to pay taxes on incomplete buildings. The parliament is considering changes to those tax laws. 

The place is overcrowded, and expect to be accosted by roaming vendors trying to sell you their wear. 

I applaud their entrepreneurship in finding ways to make a living, but sometimes it becomes too annoying.

Even though we entered the souq intending only to observe, we bought several souvenirs, including handmade carpets. 

Several cafes and restaurants are located at the main entrance of the bazaar, and a beautiful mosque occupies one corner. 

Edfu

In March of 2023, my wife and I decided to embark on our long-awaited journey through Egypt. 

After a hectic three-day tour of Cairo and Giza, we flew on Egypt Air to Luxor, were whisked away to our cruise ship, Steinberger Minerva, and checked into our fabulous cabin. 

The four-day cruise starts from Luxor and goes up the Nile River to Aswan, stopping at several ports along the way.

After two days in Luxor and after crossing the Esna Locks, we stopped at Edfu to visit the most well-preserved temple in Egypt, the Temple of Horus.

This temple is near the cruise ship port, so we went on a horse carriage (locally called Calèche) to reach this beautiful temple. When we reached it, we were greeted by hundreds of carriages lining up at the entrance.

Our carriage driver navigated the chaotic traffic and managed to drop us at the entrance. 

The Temple of Horus at Edfu was built over a period of 180 years during the Ptolemaic Kingdom and is dedicated to the falcon god Horus. It is a masterpiece of ancient Egyptian architecture, and its walls are covered in intricate hieroglyphics and reliefs.

Interesting Fact: Worshipped as the child of Isis and Osiris, Horus was depicted with the head – and often the body – of a falcon and was the ruler of the skies and the deity of the pharaohs.

Some of the inscriptions depict scenes of the Sacred Drama, which is related to the age-old conflict between Horus and Seth. 

Its proximity to the Nile River allows for magnificent views from the temple’s wall. 

The temple was used for religious ceremonies until the fifth century AD.

It was then abandoned and buried by sand and silt. It was rediscovered in the early 19th century and has been excavated and restored since then.

In addition to the Temple of Horus, Edfu also has several other archaeological sites, including a Roman fort, a Coptic church, and a cemetery. The city is also a popular destination for birdwatching, as it is located on the migration route for many bird species.

The town of Edfu is small and charming, with a population of around 60,000 people. It is located on the west bank of the Nile River and is home to many markets, shops, and restaurants. 

Esna Locks

In March of 2023, my wife and I decided to embark on our long-awaited journey through Egypt. 

After a hectic three-day tour of Cairo and Giza, we flew on Egypt Air to Luxor, were whisked away to our cruise ship, Steigenberger Minerva, and checked into our fabulous cabin. 

The four-day cruise starts from Luxor and goes up the Nile River to Aswan, but right to the south of Luxor, the river changes to a higher level. We had to use the Esna Locks to rise to the upper level.

The crossing happened late at night, so the few of us who wanted to witness this event stayed up and gathered at the ship’s bow. Our tour guide arranged for us to stand in front of the bridge window for the best view.

Seeing the ship rise as the big pumps filled the lock with water was great. On the other side, we saw a boat descending in the opposite direction to the lower level. 

Interesting Fact: All other locks on the Nile River are operated by a system of gates and pumps. However, the Esna Locks are still run by a team of men who use a system of ropes and pulleys to open and close the gates. This is a tradition that has been passed down for generations.

The Esna Locks were built in the early 20th century to control water flow and allow ships to pass between Luxor and Aswan. 

The locks are made of concrete and stone and are about 200 feet long and 50 feet wide. 

Here are some additional details about the Esna Locks:

The locks have a lift capacity of 1,500 tons.

The locks are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

The admission fee to the locks is 50 Egyptian pounds (about $2 USD).

Kom Ombo

The town of Kom Ombo was a stop along my 4-day Nile River cruise.

In March of 2023, my wife and I decided to embark on our long-awaited journey through Egypt. 

After a hectic three-day tour of Cairo and Giza, we flew on Egypt Air to Luxor, were whisked away to our cruise ship, Steinberger Minerva, and checked into our fabulous cabin. 

The four-day cruise starts from Luxor and goes up the Nile River to Aswan, stopping at several ports along the way.

After two days in Luxor and a stop at Edfu, we finished the day in Kom Ombo to visit the unique double temple.

The temple was built during the Ptolemaic dynasty, 180–47 BC, and some additions to it were later made during the Roman period.

Interesting Facts: The name Kom Ombo means "the hill of the crocodile".

The temple has two main structures. The southern half was dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek, God of fertility and creator of the world with Hathor and Khonsu.

While the northern part of the temple was dedicated to the falcon god Horus the Elder, this temple is atypical because everything is perfectly symmetrical along the main axis. 

The temples of Kom Ombo are a stunning example of ancient Egyptian architecture, with their well-preserved columns, walls adorned with intricate carvings, and impressive hieroglyphics. 

Interesting Facts: The ancient Egyptians worshipped crocodiles, and Kom Ombo was considered a sacred site for crocodile worship. 

Kom Ombo is located on the banks of the Nile River, and the temple offers panoramic views of the river and its surrounding landscape. 

The picturesque setting allows one to appreciate the region’s natural beauty and take stunning photos.

Within the temple complex, there is a crocodile museum that houses mummified crocodiles, which were considered sacred by the ancient Egyptians. The museum highlights twenty-two crocodile mummies, crocodile eggs, wooden sarcophagi, and crocodile fetuses.

From Luxor, we embarked on a 4-day Nile River Cruise.

In March of 2023, my wife and I decided to embark on our long-awaited journey through Egypt. 

We have always wanted to visit this Arab country to experience its culture and history. So we booked a two-week tour to places like Cairo, Giza, Luxor, Edfu, Aswan, Sharm El-Sheikh, and ancient monuments and temples like the Great Pyramids, Sphinx, Karnak, and the Valley of the Kings.

After a hectic three-day tour of Cairo and Giza, we flew on Egypt Air to Luxor, were whisked away to our cruise ship, Steigenberger Minerva, and checked into our fabulous cabin. 

The cabin was more like a hotel room than a cruise ship cabin, with a king bed, a large window offering splendid views, and a full bathroom. It also had a flat-screen TV that we never turned on because we were too busy exploring the ancient monuments.

The plan is to cruise the Nile for four days from Luxor to Aswan, stopping at important ancient sites along the way.

LUXOR 

Luxor is a modern city in Upper (southern) Egypt near the site of the Ancient Egyptian city of Thebes.

Luxor has frequently been characterized as the "world's greatest open-air museum," as the ruins of the Egyptian temple complexes at Karnak and Luxor stand within the modern city. 

Immediately opposite, across the River Nile, lie the monuments, temples, and tombs of the west bank Theban Necropolis, which includes the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens. 

Luxor is among the oldest inhabited cities in the world. Its name in Arabic literally means the Palaces, and it does have many palaces, old and new.

The modern city depends primarily on tourism, but agriculture and crafts play a significant economic role.

Walking or driving along the Nile, you can see rows after rows of cruise ships embarking and disembarking the hoards of tourists into the city. 

Karnak Temple

The vast Karnak complex includes the Precinct of Amun-Re, the Precinct of Mut, Montu, and the dismantled Temple of Amenhotep IV. It also contains several sections not open to the public. 

Construction at the complex began during the reign of Senusret I in the Middle Kingdom and continued into Roman times.

Successive rulers added to or restored Karnak's buildings because they believed it would ensure immortality for the Pharaoh and the favor of the gods.

Pharaohs commissioned carvings that detailed their building and restoration work at Karnak. A pharaoh would also complete unfinished projects started by his predecessor, especially his father.

A variety of scenes decorated the columns and walls of the temples. Some show rituals or festivals conducted in a specific temple area, while others are records of a pharaoh's military exploits. The Egyptians painted these decorations, but most of the color was worn away.

Interesting Fact: The Opet Festival was held yearly in this temple, lasted for twenty-seven days, and was considered a link between the Pharaoh and the god, Amun.

The Great Hall in the Precinct of Amun-Re has an area of 50,000 sq ft with 134 massive columns arranged in 16 rows. Many are 33 ft tall, and a few are 69 ft tall.

Walking through those giant pillars covered in hieroglyphs telling the names and histories of past civilizations is awe-inspiring. Some writings are so well preserved that you can see the original colors. 

Looking up at some preserved ceilings, you will see sky-blue carvings with stars. The roofs of temples are known to represent the heavens. 

Our visit to Karnak was so thrilling that we returned to attend the Lights and Sound show. As darkness fell, the temple was lit up with various colors while a booming voice explained the history and beliefs of the ancient Egyptians. 

Luxor Temple

Luxor was built around 1400 BCE and was dedicated to rejuvenating kingship. It is believed that many pharaohs were crowned in this temple, and Alexander the Great claimed he was crowned here, but there is no evidence that he traveled past the city of Memphis. 

Parts of the building served as chapels for Pharaos and Alexander, as a Roman Garrison and seat of government, and was later converted into a church. 

The location of the old church, which was right on top of the temple columns, currently serves as an active mosque, the Abu Haggag Mosque.  

Interesting fact: The Luxor Temple is missing a large Obelisk. The King of Egypt, Muhammad Ali Pasha, gifted it to the King of France, Louis Philippe, in 1829. He, in turn, propped it in Place de la Concorde in Paris in 1836. 

From the northeast end of Luxor Temple, you can see the start of the 8,900 ft Avenue of Sphinxes, which connects to the Karnak Temple complex. 

The sphinxes lining the avenue have three distinct shapes. The first is a lion's body with a ram's head, the second is an entire ram statue, and the third is a lion with a human head (like the Sphinx). 

The avenue was buried under layers of sand and newer homes for thousands of years. It was excavated recently and opened to the public in 2021. 

Valley of the Kings

A short drive from the city of Luxor took us to a narrow, arid valley with 63 excavated tombs – so far. Excavation continues, and many more graves are expected. 

As we approached the valley, we came across two massive stone statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III.

The Valley of the Kings is full of rock-cut tombs for nearly 500 years - from the 16th to 11th century BC - used for the pharaohs and powerful nobles of the New Kingdom.

Interesting Fact: Locals believe anyone who gets close to or touches the boy king's tomb will be cursed. This was after the team led by Howard Carter died mysteriously, and none of them, including Howard, survived shortly after the tomb's discovery.

We visited three of those tombs and were amazed at the decorations and inscriptions that survived thousands of years. 

The decorations represent scenes from Egyptian mythology and depict the Pharaoh's journey to the afterlife. It provides us with a glimpse into the afterlife beliefs of the ancient Egyptians and is a testament to their skill and artistry.

The Valley of the Kings is one of Egypt's most popular tourist destinations and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

It is home to some of the world's most famous tombs, including Tutankhamun's tomb.

Valley of the Queens

Near the Valley of the Kings is another ancient burial ground dedicated to tombs of the wives and children of the pharaohs of the New Kingdom (1550-1070 BC).

The first tomb in the Valley of the Queens was built for Queen Ahmose-Nefertari, the wife of Ahmose I, the founder of the 18th Dynasty. Over the next 500 years, more than 90 tombs were built in the valley for queens, princesses, and other royal family members.

During our visit, we explored the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, the first woman Pharaoh to rule ancient Egypt. 

Interesting fact: Thutmose III, Hatshepsut's nephew, and successor, attempted to erase her from history by defacing her images in tombs and monuments. Despite his efforts, her legacy has survived, and she is now remembered as one of the most influential and successful women in Egyptian history.

The Temple of Hatshepsut is considered to be a masterpiece of ancient architecture. 

Its three massive terraces rise above the desert floor and into the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari. 

Her tomb lies inside the same massif capped by El Qurn, a pyramid for her mortuary complex. 

The temple is decorated with scenes from Hatshepsut's life, reign, and religious scenes. 

The most famous scene in the temple is the Punt Relief, which depicts Hatshepsut's expedition to the Land of Punt.

Alabaster Stoneworks Artisans

Several stonework schools and museums are scattered in Luxor, showing tourists how the ancient Egyptians performed their artistry with various stones. 

We visited one of the schools called "Abu Haggag," which aims to keep the tradition of carving Alabaster alive with an apprentice program.

Important Note: Prices of handcrafts are often inflated in Egypt because they expect you to haggle. 

The students and teachers were eager to demonstrate their craft and show us their finished products. 

I was surprised to see that the piece to be carved was placed in the ground while the artist used a special tool to shape the interior.

We were impressed with their work and bought too small Pyramids to take with us. 

In March of 2023, my wife and I decided to embark on our long-awaited journey through Egypt. 

Read about Egypt and the highlights of our tour here and about Cairo here.

This story is dedicated to our exciting tour of the Great Pyramids, Saqqara, and Memphis.  

Our tour of those historic sites was guided by Fawzy from Memphis Tours, who gave us a wealth of information about those sites and made our time memorable. 

Mit Rahina Museum

Our tour started with a visit to the ruins of the ancient city of Memphis and the Mit Rahina Museum.

Memphis (Men-nefer) was founded by King Menes and was the capital of ancient Egypt during the Old Kingdom. 

Memphis thrived as a regional commerce, trade, and religious center during its golden age.

Interesting Facts: Most Ancient Egyptian pyramids were built as tombs for pharaohs (rulers of Ancient Egypt) and their families. To date, over 130 pyramids have been discovered in Egypt.

The ruins of this ancient city are now located near the village of Mit Rahina.  

Mit Rahina is an open-air museum built around a magnificent fallen colossal limestone statue of Ramses II. 

We felt like little ants as we walked around the humungous statue. Going up the stairs, we could view the statue from above and admire the excellent artistry. 

Also, from the balcony, we could gaze down at other statues, monuments, and a large field of excavated artifacts that are yet to be categorized and assembled. 

The outdoor museum also had a baby Sphinx and an upright statue of Ramases II, and many vendors selling souvenirs to tourists

Saqqara and Stepped Pyramid

Saqqara is an Egyptian village in the Giza Governorate that contains ancient burial grounds of Egyptian royalty, serving as the necropolis for the ancient Egyptian capital, Memphis.

Saqqara contains numerous pyramids, including the Pyramid of Djoser, sometimes called the Step Tomb, and is considered the oldest complete stone building complex known in history.

Interesting Facts: Saqqara is home to 11 major pyramids sprawled over 6 miles, including the oldest known pyramid: the Step Pyramid of Pharaoh Djoser I

The Step Pyramid is enclosed by the funerary complex, designed by Imhotep and described by some as the world's first architect.

A large court between the south tomb and the Pyramid has curved stones considered territorial markers associated with the Heb-sed festival.

The festival was an important ritual completed by Egyptian kings (typically after 30 years on the throne) to renew their powers. Read about it here https://www.britannica.com/topic/Heb-Sed 

The huge building containing the Step Pyramid, tombs, chapel, and courtyards has one grand entrance. After admiring the design, we passed through the entrance colonnade and the South Court. We then took a short hike around the building and the Pyramid. 

You can really appreciate the scale of such structures as you walk next to them. This was the first Pyramid to be built in ancient Egypt and the first we saw up close. We thought it was huge, but once we saw the Great Pyramid of Khufu, it looked small in comparison.

Restaurant "Pharous"

After we toured the museum and the Step Pyramid, we stopped for lunch at this authentic Egyptian restaurant. The name "Pharous" is a variant of Pharoas, and it was appropriate due to its proximity to Pharoas tombs.

We were greeted by a band of dancing and singing performers as we approached the main gate. 

The restaurant had several seating halls, but we chose to sit in the garden.

Our guide ordered a feast of Mezzeh and Grilled meats. If you are unfamiliar with the Mezzeh concept, it is a large collection of small plates that include Humus, Falafel, Tabouleh, Baba Ghannoj, pickles, olives, and more.

We enjoyed our delicious meal while traditional Arabic music played in the background. 

The Great Pyramids and Sphinx

After a short ride through villages and towns, we ended up at the fantastic site of the three Pyramids. 

Seeing those great monuments so close to the Giza suburbs was astonishing. Movies and documentaries always depict the Pyramids in the middle of the desert, away from civilization.  

But despite this encroachment of civilization, the site was stunning. 

Interesting fact: Contrary to common belief, the Pyramids were not built by slave labor. Read about it at BBC.

As we got closer to the base of the Pyramid of Khufu, the sheer size of this mega building was astounding. It felt like an artificial mountain. 

It is hard to imagine how Giza looked like thousands of years ago before the sands of time eroded them to their current state. The above video recreates those times for use. You can also see it here: https://youtu.be/_CeDOpCFwOY?t=43.

Three known chambers are inside the Pyramid, and one is available for tourists to explore. 

Our guide told us it was difficult and not worth the effort to climb into this chamber, but we had to see it. 

Interesting Facts: There are actually more than 130 pyramids in Egypt

So we bought the extra tickets and went up the Pyramid steps, into a doorway, and up a steep tunnel. 

The climb was exhausting and crowded, and the interior was stuffy and hot, but we persevered and made it to the chamber – which was empty. But at least we can now say we went inside the Great Pyramid.

Interesting Fact: Initially standing at 146 meters (481 feet), the Great Pyramid was the tallest man-made structure in the world for more than 3,800 years. Over time, most of the smooth white limestone casing was removed, which lowered the Pyramid's height to the present 138 meters (454 ft). What you see today is the underlying core structure. 

After we visited the Pyramid of Khufu, our guide took us to a vantage point to observe the three Pyramids together. 

They also offered Camel Rides around the Pyramids, but we declined because we were tired and concerned about riding those huge ships of the desert. 

The Sphinx is another great relic in Giza close to the Pyramids. It was carved from limestone and represented a mythical creature with the head of a human and the body of a lion. 

We noticed that the Sphinx's nose was broken. According to a popular myth, it was broken by cannonballs fired by Napoleon Bonaparte's army during one of the military battles of the French campaign in Egypt in 1798. However, this is refuted by several sources predating the birth of Napoleon.

Our visit to the Sphinx was cut short due to a sudden desert thunderstorm, but by this point in the tour, we had our fill of ancient monuments and were ready for a reset before dinner. 

La Palmeraie Moroccan Restaurant 

Back in Cairo and after a well-deserved rest, we walked to our dinner reservations at La Palmeraie Moroccan Restaurant located inside the Sofitel Hotel.

The restaurant is on a terrace overlooking the Nile with great river views, sailboats, and the cityscape beyond.

While we enjoyed the view, we tried the lamb with dried fruit and the chicken with potatoes tagine – both were very tasty.

After our exciting Cairo and Ancient Egypt exploration, we looked forward to relaxing on the crystal-clear waters of Sharm El Sheikh. This Red Sea resort is a stark change from the bustling Egyptian cities and archeological sites. 

The city had the feel of a California beach town, with its modern resorts and open-air malls – with a few Middle Eastern features like Mosques.

Interesting fact: Egypt is mainly in North Africa, but Sharm El Sheikh is in Asia. 

While at Sharm El Sheikh, we spent some time at the beach, toured the old city and two modern malls, enjoyed an Egyptian dinner, and went on a submarine cruise to enjoy the coral reefs and marine life. 

At night, we enjoyed the 1001 Nights dinner and show, which was spectacular. Imagine a Las Vegas Cirque De Soleil show with a Middle Eastern theme. 

Sharm El-Sheikh

Sharm El-Sheikh is a resort town on Egypt's southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, and unlike the rest of Egypt, it is in Asia. 

It is located on the coast of the Red Sea and is known for its beautiful beaches, clear waters, and coral reefs. 

The city also has several historical and cultural sites, including the Naama Bay promenade, the Ras Mohammed National Park, and the Sharm el-Sheikh Old Market.

Interesting fact: Everywhere you go in the city, you will see a lot of signs in Russian. Sharm has always been a popular destination for Russian tourists, but the Russian population in Sharm exploded after the start of the Ukraine war.

The city is also a major diving destination and is home to many dive sites, including the Shark and Yolanda reefs and the Thistlegorm wreck.

Here are some of the things you can do in Sharm El-Sheikh: Dive or take diving lessons, snorkel, visit the Ras Mohammed National Park, explore the malls, camel rides into the desert, Visit the Monastery of St. Catherine, or Hike Mount Sinai.

Weather and Best Time to Visit

Sharm El-Sheikh climate is moderate, with average temperatures ranging from 60s F in January to 90s in August – with the best times to visit in Spring and Fall.

During our visit, the temperature was in the high seventies – perfect for relaxing on the beach or swimming in a heated pool. The Red Sea waters were a little chilly but okay to swim.

Hotels and Resorts

Memphis Tours booked us at the Renaissance Sharm El-Sheikh Resort by Marriott, and we loved it as soon as we entered. 

The resort is laid on several hills, Villa style, with commanding views of the Red Sea, and the blue and white theme set the mood for a beach vacation.

After checking in, our luggage was loaded on a golf cart, and we rode to our room. The driver had to negotiate many sharp turns until we reached our building. 

The following day, on our way to the breakfast buffet, we admired the beautiful landscape and views. We had to climb stairs and cross bridges, waterfalls, and fountains. 

The breakfast buffet was excellent, with a large selection of international dishes and exceptional service to go with it. 

We eventually reached the beach with reclining chairs, coffee tables, umbrellas, and a beachside café for snacks and drinks. 

The resort had two large pools with snack bars, but we didn't spend any time there because we were more interested in relaxing on the beach.

Wi-Fi is strong everywhere in the resort, including our room, restaurant, and the beach, which was a relief after the spotty service on board the cruise ship.

The resort also offers scuba diving lessons and parasailing. I signed up for parasailing, but it was canceled, so we picked a more relaxed activity. 

We had a much-needed couple's massage at the SPA, and my wife enjoyed a full service of facial and manicure/pedicure. 

The only resort we experienced during this visit was Renaissance, but the town is full of great resorts, hotels, and rentals. Some big names are Four Seasons, Mövenpick Resort, SUNRISE Arabian Beach Resort, and Jaz Belvedere Resort.

If you visit with kids, you may consider Pickalbatros Aqua Blu Resort, which has an impressive water park. 

Old Market

Well, how much relaxation can you do in a day? Come on; I am in a new city. I am not going to waste the day on the beach.

So we went on a self-guided tour of the old city with its old Souq. The hotel arranged for a prepaid taxi ride to the center, and we were dropped off at the edge of the pedestrian-only street and arranged for a pickup time and place.

The Old Market in Sharm El Sheikh is a bustling and colorful place full of life and excitement. 

It is a great place to experience Egypt's vibrant culture and traditions. As we strolled through the narrow streets, we saw various shops selling everything from spices and textiles to souvenirs and street food. 

There are also several mosques and churches in the area, which add to the sense of history and culture.

Al Sahaba Mosque, the largest mosque in Sharm El Sheikh, attracted our attention with its unique Islamic architecture. 

Interesting Fact: As you walk around in the old city, you will see several camels resting or giving tourists a ride.

The mosque is open to visitors, but everyone must have proper clothing, especially women, who are expected to wear a head cover before entering.

After exploring the market, we had lunch at Andrea Restaurant on the second floor of a building overlooking a strange-looking hill. 

The hill looked like it was artificial, with stairs leading to the top. While we were enjoying a delicious lunch, a waterfall started cascading from the hill. 

After lunch, I decided to climb the stairs for a short hike behind the waterfall, which was a great spot for photos.

1001 Nights – Arabian Nights Show

As part of our tour, we had arranged to watch the 1001 Nights dinner and show. 

The van picked us up from the hotel and dropped us at the main gate, and we were impressed with what we saw. 

Elaborate castle design from the outside and lush gardens, pools, and fountains inside. After a long walk through hallways and arches, passing several dining halls, we ended up at an outdoor theater with ancient Egyptian monument replicas.

While we were served a delicious Moroccan dinner, a sax player opened the evening entertainment with a set of masterful pieces.

The 1001 Nights Show is a spectacular evening of entertainment that combines traditional Egyptian music, dance, and acrobatics with a modern twist. 

The show features a cast of over 100 performers, including belly dancers, fire dancers, acrobats, and musicians. 

The show and dinner were superb, and the service was exemplary, but I expected a more Middle Eastern theme. Instead, it felt more like a Las Vegas Cirque du Soliel show with an oriental twist. 

Guided Tour

When we arrived in Sharm El-Sheikh, no tours were planned apart from the 1001-night show.

But it only took a quick call to our Memphis Tours guide to arrange for two tours.

The first was an evening tour of the modern part of the city. We started with a visit to Naama Bay.

The bay was originally a small fishing village but was developed into a resort district in the 1980s. 

Naama Bay is now home to a marina, hotels, restaurants, shops, and an open-air bazaar. 

Walking through this busy center, we noticed several restaurants with a Bedouin seating style – and many souvenir shops. 

Interesting Fact: Sharm El-Sheikh is a popular place for international conferences the latest one was the United Nation Climate Change conference in November, 2022.

We skipped all the modern, touristy restaurants and went to Saltana (Sultana) for dinner, a place popular with the locals. 

We ordered traditional Egyptian cuisine like Fool (Fava Beans) and Ta’ameya (Falafel) with many sides and mint tea. 

The food was delicious, and the restaurant owner checked on us and helped us choose our meal. 

Our next stop was at Soho Square, another open-air bazaar. This place was brilliant, with many shops, restaurants, and lights reminiscent of Christmas decorations.

Walking through this place is a delight, with statues and fountains everywhere. A dancing water fountain kicks off every 30 minutes with international pop songs. While we watched this captivating show, we heard songs in English, French, Arabic, and Russian. 

Submarine Cruise

On our last day in Sharm El-Sheik, we had a few hours to kill, so we went on a Submarine Cruise with the Royal Sea Scope. 

We arrived at the port, were checked in, and offered pineapple drinks. We quickly learned that those drinks were not free, but we took them with us and enjoyed them as the submarine made its way to the coral reef.

Well, it is not exactly a submarine, but more like a glass-bottom boat – and it was a large boat with two levels. 

The top level had rows of seats looking outward for the best views as we cruised to the reef. We could see the old market, its unique mosque, Ras Katy, several resorts, beaches, and Ras Mohammed National Park.  

When we approached the reef, we went down to the lower level to be underwater to admire the reef and marine life from large panoramic windows. 

Interesting Fact: You can see the island of Tiran from many beaches. It is located in between Egypt and Saudi Arabia. The island was administered by Egypt and 2017 when it was ceded to SA by agreement. A proposed causeway would link Tabuk to Sharm el-Sheikh. 

It is a tranquil and mesmerizing feeling once immersed in the sea, with schools of fish darting around you. 

Of course, you can get closer to sea life with snorkeling or scuba diving, but in this semi-submarine, you can do it without getting wet. 

We had a great experience on this excursion and saw many types of fish and coral reefs. The guides were very knowledgeable and helpful.

Jordan, throughout history, was a crossroad between East and West. Ancient roads through the desert connected civilizations like the Greeks, Nabataeans, and Romans, and more recent states like the Umayyads and the Ottomans.

Read the main article about Jordan in general and the capital Amman here.

A 2-hour trip from Amman will take you to this city perched on top of the highest hills in Jordan with an intact fortress from the Crusades era.

Ajloun (Ajlun) is a northern town close to Syria and Palestine (Israel) borders. Due to the elevation, Ajloun is always cooler than the rest of the kingdom, and the hilltops are covered with forests – a rare view in Jordan.

As you drive up the winding roads through the mountain, you will get glimpses of this magnificent fortress atop one of the highest peaks. The fortress was built by one of Saladin’s commanders to protect the country against the advance of the Crusaders. Read more about Ajloun's history here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ajloun_Castle

Once you pay the fee and enter the fortress, you can explore on your own. Climb every set of steps and enter every room. One of the rooms hosts a small museum with some artifacts from the various time periods of the region.

Make sure to climb all the way to the roof for a commanding view of the town of Ajloun , the Golan Heights, and the West Bank. 

The town of Ajloun is famous for its flatbread. Stop at one of the bakeries and order a loaf or two. The loaves are huge and very tasty - best eaten with goat cheese or yogurt cheese (Labaneh). 

While at Ajloun you can stay at the Nature Reserve and go on guided hikes. You can rent cabin tents with a fridge, kettle, shower with hot water and an oil stove. The hikes are strenuous. You should be fit and wear proper hiking boots and clothes. 

Other landmarks in Ajloun:

• Tell Mar Elias
• Great Ajloun Mosque 
• Holy Spirit Church
• Shrine for Al-Khadir (St. George)
• Birthplace of the Prophet Elijah.

Jordan, throughout history, was a crossroad between East and West. Ancient roads through the desert connected civilizations like the Greeks, Nabataeans, and Romans, and more recent states like the Umayyads and the Ottomans.

Read the main article about Jordan in general and the capital Amman here.

An hour's drive from Amman, Jordan, you will find this well-preserved ancient city right in the middle of its modern counterpart. Jerash was originally established by Alexander the Great around 331 BC as Gerasa and later annexed to the Roman Empire. Around AD 129, the Roman emperor Hadrian visited Jerash, and the famous triumphal arch (or Arch of Hadrian) was built to celebrate his visit.

Read more about Jerash history here.

After you pass through the entrance plaza, the Arch is the most prominent feature you will notice. It is imposing and mostly intact. 

As you walk in and to the left, you will come across the circus (Hippodrome). This is where the Romans held their chariot and horse racing tournaments. The Jerash Heritage Company holds daily ticketed performances of the Roman Army and Chariot Experience at the Hippodrome. Check Visit Jordan website for more details.

Further down, you will see one of the southern amphitheaters and Zeus Temple. At the theater, you can enjoy some music and drumbeats by a Bedouin band, and you can explore the steep steps and various passages. You will have a commanding view of the ancient city from the top steps.

One of the most striking features of this ancient city is the large Oval Forum surrounded by a colonnade - a long circular sequence of columns. Another important feature is the main street (Cardo), lined with another long colonnade. This street runs through most of ancient Jerash.

Along the main street, you will see other important ruins like the Agora, several churches, an Umayyad mosque, and the Archaeological Museum. Don’t miss the museum. It has an impressive collection of Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad artifacts. It even includes ancient theater tickets made from pottery.

Towards the north end of the city, you can visit Two baths, more churches, another Amphitheater, and the temple of Artemis.

On the way back, you can stop at the souvenir shops at the entrance plaza. If you are hungry, stop at "Jerash Resthouse" restaurant, right at the ancient city's entrance.

The food is very good, and the location is convenient. They have an area for Bedouin-style seating. The prices are more expensive than average due to the location. You should ask for the traditional "Mansaf" dish, a Lamb and Rice dish with a flavorful yogurt sauce.

Many shops sell Jerash's famous goat cheese near the ancient city. Make sure to stop and sample some of the best cheese in Jordan.

Jordan, throughout history, was a crossroad between East and West. Ancient roads through the desert connected civilizations like the Greeks, Nabataeans, and Romans, and more recent states like the Umayyads and the Ottomans.

Read the main article about Jordan in general and the capital Amman here.

The lost city of Petra was founded by the Nabataeans in 321 BC as the center of their trading empire. Although the Nabataeans were nomadic in nature, they managed to use their trading wealth to build this amazing city into the rocky mountains.

The Nabataean civilization declined, and the city disappeared from history for a long time until it was rediscovered in 1812. You can read more about Petra's history here.

Our trip to Petra was both exhilarating and exhausting. We packed some snacks and lots of water and started on our way at 8 am. In hindsight, I think we should have started much earlier or spent the night close by. In Fall and Winter, the sun sets very early, making for a much shorter day for exploration. 

The trip from Amman to Petra takes from 3 to 4 hours, depending on your stops. We like to stop a lot on the way to rest and explore. Our first stop was at a Falafel place to pick up breakfast. It is probably the best falafel in Jordan. What distinguishes “Abu Jbara” restaurant is the variety of falafel sandwiches, toppings, and breads available. You can basically custom-build your Falafel experience. If you like spicy food, ask them to add Shatta (a very spicy sauce). 

Along the way, we stopped at a souvenir shop to use the restrooms and buy hats for the tour. Our guide mentioned that the sun is usually blazing in Petra. He also suggested using a lot of sunscreen. We ended up buying much more than hats. Prices were reasonable compared to the expected high prices in Petra.

Outside the ancient city of Petra, you will come across the town of Wadi Musa. The town has grown dramatically in recent times due to the importance of Petra as a tourist destination. You will find many hotels and restaurants. Some tourists prefer to spend the night in the region to visit Petra and Wadi Rum. 

On the outskirts of  Wadi Musa, we stopped at a freshwater spring called Ain Musa. Legend has it that the prophet Moses stopped at this location – on his way to the Promised Land - and struck a rock to produce the spring for his followers. The spring has been running continuously since ancient times.

A little further down the road from the spring, there is a commanding view of the mountains in which Petra was carved. You can see strange formations reminiscent of Mount Rushmore – but it is all-natural. 

Once we arrived at the entrance plaza, we bought our tickets and started our journey through time. 

Tip: Wear old tennis or hiking shoes. Most of your walking will be on soft red dirt that clings to shoes. 

It is an amazing feeling to walk into the Siq (Gorge) and be surrounded by huge rose-colored cliffs from both sides. The cliffs are as high as 260 ft. and can get as narrow as 9 ft. – they can block the sunlight and give a brief refuge from the heat. 

As you walk through the Siq, notice the irrigation canals carved through the walls. The Nabateans carved those canals and built dams along the way to catch and redirect rainwater.

Important Tip: Watch out for carriage and horse traffic – try to stay close to the walls. The riders sometimes hurtle around the corners and threaten pedestrians. 

At the end of the Siq, you will start seeing hints of the most famous Petra building, “The Treasury (Al-Khazneh)”. As you exit the Siq, you will have a full view of the Treasury that commands a large clearing in the middle of the mountains. 

The treasury was built by the Nabateans in the first century AD as a mausoleum and crypt – contrary to popular myth that it was used as a place to hold treasures. 

Petra's history is mired in mystery and myth. It started as an Arab Nabatean settlement with Greek and Egyptian influences - but was absorbed later by the growing Roman Empire. There is conflicting evidence about who built what. 

Regardless of origins, the rest of Petra is as breathtaking as the famous Treasury. Most visitors just hike through the Siq and admire the treasury, then turn back. 

Don’t be one of those tourists. Keep going and experience the various tombs and residences etched into the mountains. Admire the colors of rock formations – which oscillate between various shades of red and pink. Visit the amphitheater, designed to overlook the largest collection of tombs, and don’t miss Qasr Al-Bint, which was built as a temple. Ask about the legend of Qasr Al-Bint also known as the Temple of the Winged Lions.

Tip: If you don’t have a guide with you, hire one at the entrance plaza. The prices are reasonable and they can provide valuable information about the sights and history.

If you have the time and the stamina, plan on climbing close to 800 steps to the Monastery (El Deir). The climb is hard, but it is worth the effort. If you are not up to it, you can hire one of the Donkeys to take you all the way to the top - although I am not sure which one is riskier – climbing the stairs or riding the Donkey.

Tip: Before climbing the steps, visit the restrooms at the restaurant next to the museum. You can also take a break at the restaurant and have some snacks.

I don’t want to spoil the surprise for would-be adventurers, so I will not say much about the Monastery itself. The Monastery was built by the Nabateans as a temple to one of their Gods but possibly used later by Christians. No one knows for sure.

Tip: All along the way you will have opportunities to ride a horse, a carriage or a donkey to your destination. Each operator has boundaries they can’t cross. Agree ahead of time on the destination and the price. As usual, you can negotiate the price.

It was getting dark when we made it to the top of the stairs and enjoyed the view. So we had to hustle back down and all the way out of the Siq before it really got dark. There is no lighting at night in Petra – unless you arrive during one of the special nights when they light up the city with candles. Check the Visit Jordan website for the candlelight schedule. There is a separate fee for those events. 

See a map of  Petra here.