A Journey Through Egypt's Timeless Wonders

In March of 2023, my wife and I embarked on our long-awaited journey through Egypt. 

We had always wanted to visit this fascinating Arab country to experience its culture and history. We booked a two-week tour that would take us to Cairo, Giza, Luxor, Edfu, Aswan, and Sharm El-Sheikh, visiting ancient monuments and temples such as the Great Pyramids, Sphinx, Karnak, and the Valley of the Kings.

In the following pages, I will share our impressions of this country, its people, and its past, along with some advice on where to go and what to do. This whirlwind tour of Egypt was terrific, but I quickly realized that two weeks is simply not enough time to experience everything this incredible country has to offer.

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Quick Impressions

Egypt is a country of over 110 million people, not counting all the tourists, and a majority of them seem to live in Cairo. Everywhere you go, the streets are filled with people roaming, visiting museums and monuments, and driving. Despite this organized chaos, life seems to run smoothly, and people are generally friendly and helpful. Visitors should expect a truly great experience.

Traveler Tip: Do not attempt to drive in Cairo. The local drivers are accustomed to the nightmarish traffic, but it would be a major challenge for visitors. Taxis are widely available, and while Uber and Lyft are not, other ride-hailing apps can sometimes be found.

Almost everyone speaks English, and many other languages are widely understood as well. If you appear to be a tourist, expect vendors, beggars, and tour guides to address you in your native language. Of course, most of them only know a few words required for their trade. Tourist attractions are usually traffic-controlled with a barricade. Expect to be stopped and asked a few questions. If you are with a tour guide, they will handle the interaction with the police. Finally, if this is your first visit to Egypt, I strongly recommend booking a tour with a reputable company.

Interesting Fact: The Ancient Egyptians invented the 365-day-a-year calendar, basing it on the annual flooding of the Nile River. This was one of the earliest known solar calendars.

I booked my tour of Egypt with Indus Travel, which in turn contracted with the local company Memphis Tours. They arranged all the reservations, activities, and local guides. Our guide met us at the airport, arranged transportation, and provided detailed information about the sites we visited. They were also very well-versed in the English language.

User Comment (from a travel forum): "I was nervous about the language barrier, but our guide in Luxor made everything so easy. He was a walking encyclopedia of Egyptian history and his English was fantastic. Don't let language worries stop you from visiting!"

Western-style, Indian, and Chinese restaurants are found in all major cities, but I highly recommend trying traditional Egyptian and Middle Eastern cuisine. Ask your guide to arrange for an authentic culinary experience. The currency conversion rate is very favorable for Western travelers. One dollar will approximately equal 31 Egyptian pounds (EGP), and a Euro will be worth about 33 pounds. The locals refer to their currency as "Geneh." A satisfying bowl of Koshari (a local traditional dish) will cost around 35 pounds, which is about $1. A gourmet Moroccan dinner for two with a Nile view costs around 1,860 pounds, or $60.

Interesting Fact: In a country known for its ancient history, Egypt has a surprisingly modern digital footprint. It is home to over 5 million Facebook users, making it one of the largest markets for the platform in the Middle East.

Read more about Egypt later on this page.

Cairo

After a long flight, we arrived at Cairo International Airport, were greeted by our guide, and transferred to our hotel. After relaxing in the room for a bit, we went on a short tour of the city. The tour included a stop at a popular Cairo restaurant to taste Koshari, followed by a Nile cruise in a Felucca, a small sailboat. The next day, the real adventure started with a full-day excursion to the ancient sites at Saqqara and Giza.

Saqqara is home to the Stepped Pyramid, Necropolis, and Ramses II Red Granite Statue, while Giza is renowned for the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx.

Interesting Fact: Contrary to common belief, the Pyramids were not built by slave labor. Recent archaeological findings suggest they were constructed by a well-organized workforce of paid laborers, artisans, and stone masons. Read about it at BBC.

We enjoyed an authentic Egyptian lunch in a garden at the "Pharous" restaurant in Saqqara. On the third day, we embarked on a tour of Cairo's Old City, visiting the Hanging Church, the Saladin Citadel, and the Mosque of Muhammad Ali. From the Citadel complex, we could even see the Pyramids in the distance.

Interesting Fact: Most Ancient Egyptian pyramids were built as tombs for pharaohs (rulers of Ancient Egypt) and their families. To date, 118 pyramids have been discovered in Egypt, with new discoveries still being made.

Of course, we had to stop at Khan El-Khalili, a famous bazaar, for some souvenir shopping.

Luxor and the Nile Cruise

After a short flight, we landed in Luxor, where we were whisked away to our cruise ship, the Steigenberger Minerva, and checked into our fabulous cabin. The cabin was more like a hotel room than a typical cruise cabin, with a king bed, a large window offering splendid views, and a full bathroom. It also had a flat-screen TV that we never turned on because we didn't have time for it!

In Luxor, we visited the magnificent Karnak and Luxor Temples, as well as the Valley of the Kings. Karnak was so awe-inspiring that we had to return at night for the Lights and Sound show. We also saw the Avenue of Sphinxes, a 1.7-mile (2.74 km) long avenue that connects the Karnak Temple and the Luxor Temple.

We spent half a day exploring three tombs at the Valley of the Kings, the burial ground for many pharaohs. We then explored the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, the first woman to rule as pharaoh in Ancient Egypt.

Interesting Fact: Thutmose III, Hatshepsut's nephew and successor, attempted to erase her from history by defacing her images and monuments. Despite his efforts, her legacy survived, and she is now remembered as one of the most influential and successful women in Egyptian history.

The cruise included all meals, so we enjoyed buffet-style breakfast, lunch, and dinner with dishes from around the world.

Edfu – Kom Ombo

We cruised to our next two destinations, but before reaching Edfu, the ship had to cross the Esna Locks. We stayed up late to witness this engineering marvel and watched as our ship rose 26 feet from the Lower Nile to the Upper Nile.

At Edfu, we took a "calèche" ride (horse-drawn carriage) to the Temple of Horus, the Falcon God. The Temple of Horus is the best-preserved ancient temple in Egypt, built during the Ptolemaic period. After a short sail, we arrived at Kom Ombo, where we enjoyed a short walk to the unique twin Temples of Sobek and Horus.

Aswan – High Dam - Philae

The final leg of our cruise took us to Aswan, the southernmost city in Egypt. At Aswan, we first toured the High Dam and Lake Nasser, the world's largest artificial reservoir. The dam and its hydroelectric power plant are the primary sources of electricity in Egypt, also helping to control the Nile's floods. Aswan is also home to the famed Unfinished Obelisk, located in the Northern Quarry, where a crack was discovered as it was being hewn from the rock.

Our next stop was at the Temple of Philae on the island of Agilika. As we approached the island on a motorboat, we were treated to the sight of the magnificent temple. The Nile is dotted with small islands in this area, and we could see ancient ruins on many of them. We enjoyed our visit to Philae so much that we had to return at night for the light and sound show. On our final day in Aswan, we visited a Nubian village and enjoyed the hospitality of a resident. Their houses are made of mud and are often colored blue or orange.

Sharm El Sheikh

After our exciting exploration of Cairo and Ancient Egypt, we looked forward to relaxing on the crystal-clear waters of Sharm El-Sheikh. This Red Sea resort is a stark contrast to the bustling Egyptian cities and archaeological sites. It is very modern and organized, almost like stepping back into California.

Interesting Fact: Most of Egypt is located in North Africa, but Sharm El Sheikh is actually in Asia, on the Sinai Peninsula, which serves as a land bridge between the two continents.

While in Sharm El Sheikh, we spent time at the beach, toured the old city, and visited two modern malls. We also took a submarine cruise to explore the vibrant coral reefs and observe the diverse marine creatures. At night, we enjoyed the "One Thousand and One Nights" dinner and show. The performance was spectacular, like a Las Vegas Cirque du Soleil show with a unique Middle Eastern theme.

More about Egypt

Egypt (Arab Republic of Egypt) is a country in the northeastern corner of Africa. It is the most populous country in Africa and the Middle East, with a population of over 110 million people. It borders the Mediterranean Sea to the north, the Gaza Strip to the northeast, the Red Sea to the east, Sudan to the south, and Libya to the west. The Gulf of Aqaba, located in the northeast, separates Egypt from Jordan and Saudi Arabia. Although a developing country, Egypt has the third-largest economy in Africa.

Interesting Fact: The Ancient Egyptians were innovative in many ways, inventing many things we still use today, such as paper, pens, locks and keys, and even toothpaste!

Egypt's history dates back to approximately 6,000 BC. The ancient Egyptian civilization was one of the world's earliest and most influential civilizations. They built the pyramids, the Sphinx, and countless monuments and temples. They also developed a complex system of writing, mathematics, and science. Egypt has a rich and diverse culture. The Egyptians are known for their hospitality and love of music and dance.

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