Amman: Ancient History Meets Modern Vitality

Amman is a city of contrasts. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Archaeological evidence suggests settlement here dates back to the Neolithic period, around 7250 BC. Today, it stands as a modern metropolis built on rolling hills.

Arrival and First Impressions

I started my recent visit by flying into the capital. The new terminal at Queen Alia International Airport is ultra-modern and spacious. You will find many restaurants and duty-free shops to explore. Passing through passport control and customs is easy and makes you feel welcome right away.

As soon as you leave the airport and enter the city, you will start noticing the mix of old and new. East meets West here. Along the airport road, you will notice some old buildings with small shops alongside large modern stores like Ikea or Safeway.

Also, along the way, you will see several universities. Jordan is known for its large population of young, college-educated citizens. One could say that the workforce is one of Jordan’s exports. Many of them work in the Gulf States or overseas.

The City of Hills

As you enter the city, you will notice the mixed building styles. Contemporary architecture competes with Roman and Greek amphitheaters and with Umayyad Muslim architecture. These are all connected by modern highways and narrow alleyways.

Amman’s curse and blessing is that it is built on top of many hills and mountains. The hills make it look exceptionally beautiful, with magnificent views. They also offer good hiking trails for the fitness-minded. Many neighborhoods can only be reached via a series of steps and stairs.

Because of the hills, traffic can be heavy. Getting from place to place is a challenge. The hills also give Amman a strange phenomenon: the weather can vary from neighborhood to neighborhood. Some places get heavy rain while others get none.

Traveler Tip: While taxis are available (yellow cars), many travelers recommend using ride-sharing apps like Uber or Careem. They are generally safer, cleaner, and you avoid the hassle of negotiating prices.

The people here are genuinely nice and helpful. Most speak English and will be happy to direct you to your destination. Don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations for attractions or restaurants.

Downtown & Ancient History

The best way to experience Amman’s culture and history is to start in Downtown Amman (Al-Balad). You can spend hours walking the narrow streets and shopping for souvenirs. Haggling is expected, so the first offered price is never the final price.

While there, visit a traditional coffee shop. Enjoy a water pipe (hookah), coffee, or tea. This comes along with out-of-this-world desserts. Try Knafeh or Baklava.

User Comment: "The food in Amman is incredible. You absolutely must try the knafeh at Habibah Sweets downtown. It’s warm, cheesy, sweet, and crispy all at once. There is always a line, but it moves fast!" — Sarah T., TripAdvisor

If you are not ready for dessert, try the traditional dish called Mansaf. It is rice with lamb and a yogurt-based dressing.

Close to the shops, you will find the Roman Amphitheater. It was built in the second century BC. It is one of the largest Roman theaters in the world and used to seat up to 6,000 spectators.

After you pay the entrance fee, explore and try climbing the steep stairs to the top. You will have a commanding view of downtown shops and the old town buildings covering the hills.

On top of the highest hill in Amman, you will see a citadel and a Roman temple. This hill is called Jabal Al-Qalaa. At the top, you will see evidence of the Bronze Age, Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad civilizations. The most intact structure is the Umayyad Palace, built around AD 749. Nearby, you will find the Roman Temple of Hercules.

Find your adventure in Jordan here.

Modern Life & Shopping

Close to downtown, you can visit some popular spots:

• Rainbow Street: A charming little street with shops, cafes, and bars. Many cafes have a commanding view of the city.
• Darat al Funun: Located within three old villas, it houses art collections and ruins of a 6th-century Byzantine church.
• Wakalat Street: A pedestrian-only street in Sweifieh full of big Western stores, restaurants, and cafes.
• Royal Automobile Museum: This showcases the late King Hussein's personal car collection.
• City Mall: One of the largest modern malls in Amman.

Tip: Go into one of the cafes on Rainbow Street in the late afternoon. Stick around until dusk to witness the city lights come on and listen to the call to prayer echoing from the minarets.

Community & Contact

My visit to Jordan was short. There is not enough time to experience the kingdom's culture, history, and food. I definitely intend to visit again and explore the places I missed.

I invite readers to contribute articles about their favorite places. You can send your articles in English or Arabic. I will translate Arabic into English for you. Go to the contact page at www.i-wish-you-were-here.com/contact.

Attributions

• Some of the photos in this article were downloaded from Wikipedia under the Wikimedia Commons license.