Just a short one-hour drive north of Amman, Jordan, you will discover Jerash. This destination offers a remarkable experience where a remarkably well-preserved ancient city sits seamlessly alongside its modern counterpart. It is often cited as one of the best-preserved Roman provincial towns in the world.

Known in antiquity as Gerasa, the city's history is vast. It was founded around 331 BC by Alexander the Great (or his general, Perdiccas), and later annexed by the Roman Empire. In AD 129, the Roman Emperor Hadrian visited the city. To honor his arrival, the citizens constructed the monumental Triumphal Arch, now known as the Arch of Hadrian.

Throughout history, Jordan has served as a vital crossroads between East and West. Ancient trade routes across the desert connected great civilizations, including the Greeks, Nabataeans, and Romans, and later Islamic dynasties such as the Umayyads and Ottomans. Read about Jordan and Amman here.

Interesting Fact: Jerash was a key member of the Decapolis, a league of ten powerful commercial cities on the eastern frontier of the Roman Empire. Because of its excellent state of preservation, it is often nicknamed the "Pompeii of the East."

Read more about Jerash's history here.

Entering the Ancient City: The Arch and Hippodrome

Upon passing through the entrance plaza, the first prominent feature you will encounter is the Arch of Hadrian. This imposing structure stands tall and remains mostly intact, serving as a grand introduction to the ruins.

Did You Know? The Arch of Hadrian was not only a celebratory monument but also served as a city gate, intended to become the main southern entrance to the city during its expansion.

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To the left of the entrance lies the Hippodrome, or circus. This massive arena is where the Romans hosted thrilling chariot races and sporting tournaments. Today, the Jerash Heritage Company brings this history to life with daily ticketed performances of the Roman Army and Chariot Experience (RACE). Check the Visit Jordan website for more details.

Tip: The Roman Army and Chariot Experience is a must-see. It includes gladiators, military drills, and a full-speed chariot race. The shows typically run twice daily (except Tuesdays), so plan your arrival time accordingly.

Temples and Theaters

Further into the site, you will discover the South Theater and the Temple of Zeus. At the theater, you can often hear the resonance of bagpipes and drums played by a local Bedouin band. Feel free to explore the steep stone steps and the various vaulted passages. From the highest seats, you are rewarded with a commanding panoramic view of the ancient city.

Interesting Fact: The South Theater is renowned for its exceptional acoustics. A speaker standing at the center point of the orchestra floor can be heard clearly by 3,000 spectators without any amplification.

The Oval Forum and The Cardo

One of Jerash's most striking and unique features is the large Oval Forum. A long, curved colonnade of Ionic columns surrounds this spacious plaza. Leading away from the Forum is the Cardo Maximus, the city's main colonnaded street. This ancient thoroughfare runs through the heart of the town and is still paved with its original stones.

Did You Know? The Oval Forum linked the main axis of the city (the Cardo) with the Sanctuary of Zeus. If you look closely at the paving stones of the Cardo, you can still see the ruts worn by thousands of Roman chariots over centuries.

Along the Cardo, you will pass other vital ruins, including the Agora (marketplace), several Byzantine churches, a Umayyad mosque, and the Nymphaeum (a monumental fountain).

The Archaeological Museum

Do not miss the Archaeological Museum located on the site. It houses an impressive collection of artifacts spanning the Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods. Among the treasures, you can find ancient theater tickets made from pottery, jewelry, and mosaics.

The best way to fully appreciate the depth of history here is to hire a local guide or join a guided tour.

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Towards the northern end of the city, you can visit the North Theater, two Roman baths, and the majestic Temple of Artemis, dedicated to the patron goddess of the city.

Dining and Souvenirs

 On your way out, take a moment to browse the souvenir shops at the entrance plaza. If you have worked up an appetite, the "Jerash Rest House" restaurant is conveniently located near the entrance.

Traveler Tip: "The buffet at the Rest House is extensive, but the real treat is eating on the terrace with a view of the ruins. It’s the perfect place to rest your feet after hours of walking." – Mark D., TripAdvisor

The food is excellent, and the location offers a beautiful setting, including a Bedouin-style seating area. While prices may be slightly higher due to the prime location, the quality justifies the cost. We highly recommend ordering "Mansaf," Jordan's national dish. It consists of tender lamb cooked in a fermented dried yogurt sauce (Jameed) and served over rice.

Must Try: Sampling authentic Mansaf at the Jerash Rest House is a culinary experience not to be missed. It offers a true taste of Jordanian hospitality.

Additionally, many local shops near the ancient city sell Jerash's famous fresh dairy products. Be sure to sample some of the regional goat cheese or Labaneh; it is considered some of the best in Jordan.

Travel Tip: When visiting Jerash, try to stay until late afternoon. The changing light casts long, dramatic shadows through the columns and ruins, offering spectacular photographic opportunities that you miss during the harsh midday sun.